Pressure switch is in and working.

After considering the process of converting water pressure to a different liquid that would not freeze I decided to go with ethyl alcohol.  Its inexpensive, freezes at and insanely low temperature and does not affect the butyl rubber that is the bladder in the pressure tank.

The tank was filled with alcohol and connected to the pressure switch.  The air was left in the 1/4" I.D. line leading to the switch.  When we applied power to the pump we could see the level of alcohol rising in the clear 1/4" tubing until the pressure reached 55# and the switch tripped.  The system worked!

Fortunately we have a family with young men willing to work on things like this.  Jon was able to climb into the well, reach down and disconnect the pump so that it could be fitted with the pressure tank and also re-connect the finished pump with the pressure tank attached.

It is great to have the system back and running.

Currently we are using two frost-free hydrants to water our animals and fill 4.5 gallon carry bottles for use in the home.  We also ran the line from the pump past the two hydrants to a 450 gallon tank buried under the home and fitted with a float switch.  From that storage tank we have a 12 volt RV style water pump to be installed that will pressurize the home plumbing.

My next challenge is how to get a 1/2" PEX line from the pump under the home into the home in a way that will not freeze.  Simply insulating the PEX won't work as it can get to -20 degrees in the winter.  We do not have sufficient power being on solar to use heat tape on the pipe.  The distance from the tank into the home is 10'.

So my next project is ready to go...I just need to find a solution to use.

Pressure switch solution...maybe.

Moving the pressure switch out of the well casing seems to be required.  Switches that can withstand the moisture tend to have low amperage capabilities and would need to be connected to a relay to switch the current needed.  That seemed to add more complexity than I wanted although not completely unreasonable.

After looking for a device that could change water pressure to air pressure and finding none I decided to make one.  I selected a SHURFLO accumulator as the foundation.

These are used to smooth out pressures in a water line.  In the above picture, the top is filled with air at about 20 P.S.I.  As water pressure on the bottom increases the bladder move up proving a reservoir of water that is available the instant a faucet is opened.

Since I want to connect the air valve on the top of that tank to my pressure switch the water pressure would no longer have the 20 P.S.I. to push against and the bladder would expand far beyond it's intended tension.

The reason for this device was originally to change water pressure to air pressure.  So I considered filling the top of the tank with a liquid for the water to push against.  My first thought was to use anti-freeze but that stuff is poison and if the bladder ruptured for any reason the poison would be bled into the water supply.  After that thought ran through my mind I wondered if RV Anti-freeze would work.

It turns out that RV anti-freeze actually still freezes...solid.  What it does not do is expand.  That means that if you drain your RV tanks and fill all of the lines with the "pink" stuff they will still freeze but not break.  Well, so much for that idea.

Next I find information on a new "pet-safe" anti-freeze.  Here is how the product is presented:

"At the National Meeting & Exposition of the American Chemical Society on Wednesday, researchers at ACTA Technology proposed a new alternative adapted from a common food additive. In addition to being safe for kids and pets -- as well as cheaper to dispose of because it's nontoxic -- the patented product may even be more efficient than the poisonous standard.

Propylene glycol is already "generally recognized as safe" by the FDA..."

The part where it says "generally safe" caused me to look deeper.  It seems that propylene glycol is used in lots of food items including:

Margarine

Dry cake mixes

Soda pop

Frozen deserts

Kibbles and Bits dog food

Many ranch dressings and barbecue sauces

Frosting for cake and cookies

Flavored coffees

And Fireball Cinnamon Whisky.

It seems that “generally safe” is allowed in the U.S. but not in some European countries.   Although some 4,000 products use this chemical it seems to be a bad idea to have it undiluted into the water stream.

Ok, one of the items on that list got my attention… Fireball Cinnamon Whisky.  It turns out that it will not freeze until below -12 degrees.  I think I have found my anti-freeze liquid… Fireball Cinnamon Whisky.  Since the SHURFLO accumulator holds 21 oz. that would require about 11 oz of whisky.  The worst that could happen if the bladder ruptured is the water would taste like cinnamon. 

Living off-grid is an adventure.

Living off-grid is an adventure.  Perhaps the most precious requirement is water and last fall we dug a shallow well.  The well is 15' deep and we used a 3' ABS pipe 15' long to be the well casing.  There are a number of small springs here that water the pasture so we dug in the path of the underground water.  The path was visible due to the growth pattern of grass.

Once the hole was being dug we could see the source of water flowing out of the wall of the hole.  We dug further toward the source and began to see a heavier water flow.  In the path from the water source we put down washed gravel to create a path for the water to flow into the basin we had dug.

Once the gravel was in place and the pipe standing on end, we back filled around the pipe.  Within a few hours there was 7' of water in the pipe and it was amazingly clear.  In an attempt to help develop the water flow we pumped water out of the well a few times allowing it to recover each time before pumping again.  The well was then left untouched for a few weeks.

I ordered a 12 v pump from http://nemosolar.com/ as well as a low-voltage disconnect.  

Using a solar panel I had from a prior project (190 watt, 60 cell) and a very old deep-cycle battery we setup the power source.  I also purchased a 20 amp solar charge controller to support the system.

Originally I had planned on using the system without a battery meaning that we could only run the pump when there was enough solar energy but I soon discovered that without a battery to "balance" the system it simply did not work.  Other components included check valves and a pressure switch.  

I explained all of that because a few days ago the water stopped being available.  The possible problem items were the pump and the pressure switch.  Since there were probably less than 50 hours on the pump it was not likely to be the problem.  I got a young man to assist and we removed the cover for the well.  The cover is where the solar panel and the controls are mounted (but not the pressure switch).

A quick check at the pressure switch indicated that power was at the terminals from the battery but not getting to the pump. I did not realize just how much moisture was present in the well and the switch appeared as if it had been in service for years not a few months.  We cleaned the terminals, lubricated the movement and placed it back in service.  Having water flowing again is a relief.

Clearly, the pressure switch will not survive long being inside of the well casing.  I looked for a vapor-proof switch and nothing was readily available.  Now I have decided to move the pressure switch out of the well and place it close to the rest of the controls.  This week we will buy some 1/4" flexible tubing and the connectors to extend the pressure switch away from the well.  The flexible pipe can be run through the wall of the well a few inches below grade and up to the switch itself.

My concern is that water may eventually displace the air in the 1/4" tubing causing it to freeze in the winter.  So for this summer I will use the tubing and external pressure switch while I search for a solution that prevents water from displacing the air in the tubing.  

For now we have water again!

Essential Oils

When my frontier woman was talking recently she mentioned Essential Oils.  My mind immediately went to 5w-30 motor oil, 90w gear oil and of course Rem-Oil for guns.  Imagine my shock that she was referring to something entirely different. 

"Essential oils are concentrated, liquid plant extracts used for therapeutic and medicinal purposes."

What on earth make them "essential"?  Essential means "absolutely necessary; extremely important".  I don't seem to "need" liquid plant extracts.  My car does however, "need" various oils as do my guns.  

Attempting to be open-minded I visited Rocky Mountain Oils to see what is going on.  Here is what they say:

Rocky Mountain Oils Starter Kit

Every home needs a diffuser,

at least one carrier oil,

a roll-on bottle and a how-to guide. 

What the ...?  So every home needs these items?  In addition they say you can build your own kit that included:  Lavender, Tea Tree, Peppermint, Frankincense, Lemon, Helichrysum italicum, Immune Strength and Purify.  OK, there must be some thing more about this.  Why does each home need these oils?

I checked another EO (that's short for essential oils) web site and saw this warning under safety:

"Each bottle of Young Living essential oil is labeled with directions for how that oil can be used, and these directions vary based on location."

Now I am confused.  Based on what location?  What difference does it make if I live in Washington or New York?  So my wife sees my confusion and lets me know that location means where on your body.  A bit farther down the list of safety topics is "Can essential oils be applied to sensitive areas?"

The answer to that question includes this "recommends that you avoid contact with EOs and sensitive areas such as eyes, ears, genitals and mucous membranes."

I am back to my original question What on earth makes them "essential"?